Background information


  • Steven Tanzer, in Issue 49 of the IWC (Jul/Aug 93) describes Verget's batonnage and sulphiting regime as follows: "Guffens keeps his wines on their lees even after the malolactic fermentation (a la Lafon), and the purity of his lees allows Guffense to continue to "batonner." This longer and more thorough lees contact... protects them by keeping them in an oxyreductive state. As a result, Guffens does not need to add sulphur after the fermentation."
  • In vintage 1996: extensive batonnage done. At the end of May 97, when Tanzer visited, "Guffens was still performing a monthly batonnage of the '96's - a 'refreshment stirring,' in his words, meant to take the place of sulphur treatments."
  • In a February 17, 2004 posting on the Squires Board, Guffens admits that this was an error: "The vintages of 94/95/96 were the most exposed to this [premature oxidation], meanly (sic) because of a very low sulfuring. As some wines went over the edge too quickly, I decided starting from 97 to sulfur a little bit more and to reduce elevage in the barrel." [Link to Squires Board Post]
  • In vintage 1999: claims no batonnage done. (Don Cornwell ed. note: Guffens learned a difficult lesson, but those of you with 1995 and 1996 Vergets in your cellar are the ones who paid the price for it.)
  • In vintage 2004: no information on primary batonnage regime. According to Stephen Tanzer, the wines "were slated to go into round-bottomed concrete vats in July [2005], where they could remain on their lees without contact with oxygen for the rest of the summer (Guffens will not stir the lees or add suplur during this period); they will then continue to age reductively until the cold weather of winter."

Wines


1995

  • Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (21 Jun 2003): oxidized [Don Cornwell]
  • Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (18 Jul 2003): not oxidized this time, but not impressive [Don Cornwell]
  • Chablis Valmur (26 May 2004): completely oxidized [Don Cornwell]
  • Chablis Valmur (22 Jul 2004): partly oxidized: full blown deep gold color and some smoky, partly maderized notes [Don Cornwell]
  • Chablis Valmur (25 Jan 2004): not oxidized this time [Don Cornwell]
  • Chablis Valmur (01 Jul 2005): oxidized [Don Cornwell]
  • Chablis Valmur (November 2003): Great! Rich, precise, terrific mouthfeel, very Grand Cru [Frank Drew]
  • Chassagne Morgeot V.V. (July 2003): Oxidized, candied flavors [Frank Drew]
  • Chassagne La Romanée (October 2003): Tiring a bit, maybe; good, not great [Frank Drew]
  • Corton Charlemagne (September 2003): Not oxidized, very good intensity and flavor, slightly drying finish (oak?) [Frank Drew]
  • Corton Charlemagne (December 2003): Fab, not oxidized, minerally, distinctive [Frank Drew]
  • Corton Charlemagne (August 2009): Oxidized. [AT Bridge]
  • Meursault (May 2005) Not oxidized; fresh, with good focus [David Honig]
  • Meursault Les Charmes (July 2003): Not oxidized, very good, bright, rich, very white Burgundy [Frank Drew]
  • Puligny Sous Les Puits (September 2003): Somewhat oxidized, past its peak, candied flavor [Frank Drew]
  • Puligny Sous le Puits (April 2005): Tiring, possibly somewhat oxidized [David Honig]
  • Chablis Valmur (May 2007): oxidized [René Gleissner]

1996

  • Batard-Montrachet (Aug 2005): oxidized, sherry. A shame b/c of the unbelievably concentrated backbone [Paul]
  • Chablis Bougrots (Mar, Apr & Sep 2004): not oxidized, clearly outstanding each time [Don Cornwell]
  • Chablis Bougrots (2005): (3 bottles) not oxidized, crisp and steely, outstanding [Alan Weinberg]
  • Chablis Bougros (June 2005) slightly oxidized; not flabby but losing its celebrated definition [David Honig]
  • Chablis Bougros (28 Apr 2005): controversial, I thought slightly oxidized [Carl Steefel]
  • Chablis Bougros (Aug 2011): not oxidized, ready [ R Younger ]
  • Chablis Bougros (Dec 2011): not oxidized, excellent still [R Younger]
  • Chablis Fourchaume (Feb 2006): slightly oxidized, with just a slight aftertaste of sherry on the finish, though still a rich enough wine to be worth drinking, though it probably won't last much longer [Steve Malanga]
  • Chablis Fourchaume (June 2006): Not oxidized. Fresh, very bright, still young [Frank Drew]
  • Chablis Fourchaume (Sep 2006): Perhaps slightly oxidized. Rather lean but not bad [Frank Drew]
  • Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (Sep-Nov-Dec 2005): opened 3 and every G*d-damned bottle has been oxidized [Michel Robert Abood]
  • Chablis Vaillons (21 Oct 2005): very sherry on the nose and quickly (<30 min) collapsed into undrinkable [Andrew Hall]
  • Chablis Vaillons (Jan 2006): although not oxidised, very evolved, heavy and dull [JE Simond]
  • Chablis Vaillons (25 Feb 2006): not oxidised, yeast autolysis, focused and crisp on second day [Mike During]
  • Chablis Vaillons (25 Feb 2006): not oxidised and still going strong on 2nd day after 24 hours in the fridge [Dan Bailey]
  • Chablis Vaillons (Dec 2006): Not oxidized. Quite nice, if not a bit heavy. [Poppy Davis]
  • Chablis Vaillons (Feb 2007): Not oxidized, unbleached cork, really brilliant, terrific Chablis [Frank Drew]
  • Chablis Vaillons (May 2010): Not oxidized, quite crisp [Bill Lawrence]
  • Chablis Vaillons (July 2011): Oxidized - six bottles [Bill Lawrence]
  • Chablis Valmur (28 Apr 2005): not oxidized, but not crisp and steely either [Carl Steefel]
  • Chablis Valmur (June 2005): an atypically huge wow wine, not oxidized [R Younger]
  • Chablis Valmur (July 2005): not oxidized, very fresh, rich, bright, deep. Excellent. [Frank Drew]
  • Chablis Valmur (Jun 2008): 2 bottles not oxidized-tastes like big grand cru south of Beaune [R Younger]
  • Chablis Valmur (July 2011): Oxidized [Bill Lawrence]
  • Chablis Valmur (Aug 2011): not oxidized, still fabulous [R Younger]
  • Chablis Vaudesir (22 Feb 2006): not oxidised and absolutely superb chablis [Dan Bailey]
  • Chablis Vaudesir (July 2011): Oxidized - five bottles, one of which was also corked [Bill Lawrence]
  • Chassagne Montrachet La Romanee (Sep-Dec 2005): (6 bottles) 5 clearly not oxidised (4 of these were absolutely superb) and 1 questionable [Dan Bailey]
  • Chassange Montrachet Morgeots Vielles Vignes (April 2006) 18 bottles opened for a dinner - all 18 oxidized to some degree, some totally, others slightly, but all flawed and undrinkable [Will Gau]
  • (Chassagne Montrachet La Maltroye (July 2009); Not oxidized, Beautiful right now. [Bill Lawrence]
  • Meursault Charmes VV (Jan 2004): two bottles opened and completely oxidized [Don Cornwell]
  • Meursault Charmes (10 Feb 2006): too soft, slightly oxidized [H Steininger]
  • Meursault Charmes (Feb 2012): not oxidized, 96 acidity poking through a bit, very good (Adrian Latimer)
  • Meursault Les Tillets (July 2005): Excellent, very bright, intense, fresh, young [Frank Drew]
  • Pouilly Fuisse Tete de Cuvee (Dec. 2006): Oxidized, dark gold color, sweet/sour flavor, unbleached cork. [Frank Drew]
  • Pouilly Fuisse Tete de Cuvee (Jan 2007): Early oxidation; not unpleasant to drink[Frank Drew]
  • Puligny Les Enseignères (June 2005): Very bright, fresh, very Puligny, some oak but well integrated [Frank Drew]
  • Puligny Les Enseignères (July 2005): Not oxidized; fresh and satisfying [David Honig]
  • Puligny Les Enseignères (Oct 2007): Not oxidized; good, still some oak [Frank Drew]
  • Puligny Les Enseignères (Oct 2009): Fully mature, not oxidized; oak, fruit, acid, minerals still in balance; strong finish, but drink up soon [David Honig]
  • Puligny Sous les Puits (Jan 2007): Not oxidized; young, accurate, quite good [Frank Drew]
  • St. Veran Tete de Cuvee (March 2006, August 2006): Not oxidized, unbleached cork; lemony bright, still young but quite agreeable. [Frank Drew]
  • Meursault Charmes VV (May 2007): oxidized [René Gleissner]
  • Chassagne-Montrachet La Maltroie (July 2009): not oxidized [Bill Lawrence]
  • Chassagne-Montrachet La Romanée (May 2010): oxidized [Bill Lawrence]

1997

  • St. Veran Tete de Cuvee (Oct 2006, Nov 2006): Not oxidized, (saturated) unbleached cork, concentration making up for lowish acidity, very satisfying [Frank Drew]
  • Meursault Poruzots (02 Feb 2007): not oxidized, very good, young an mineral [J. Prandi]
  • Puligny Sous le Puits (2002 through 2007): eleven bottles over six years; utterly brilliant and focused at the beginning of the period, weakening each year; now distinctly oxidized despite adequate backbone and dry extract [David Honig]
  • Puligny Sous Les Puits (Mar 2008): slightly oxidised worsened with air[M. Burke]
  • Chablis Bougros (Jan. 2010): somewhat oxidized [H. Cooper]
  • Chablis Valmur (Jun 2016): not Premoxed, still superb [O. Viveier]

1998

  • Corton-Charlemagne (Jul 2005): Hopelessly oxidized; unpleasant [David Honig]

1999

  • Chablis Fourchaume VV de Vaulorens (2005): 2 bottles so far, no trouble [Steve Malanga]
  • Chablis Bougros (June 2008) slightly oxidized, but less noticeable than some samples of the 2000 version [David Honig]
  • Corton-Charlemagne (July 2011): can't compete for awfulness with the 1998 sample opened in '05 (noted above), but not holding up especially well [David Honig]

2000

  • Bourgogne (Jan 2009): suprisingly youthful; very good; no oxidation. [Ben Delancy]
  • Meursault Les Tillets (July 2010): Excellent, no oxidation [Bill Lawrence]
  • Puligny-Montrachet "Sous les Puit" (January 2011): Oxidized - 6 bottles! [Bill Lawrence]

2001

  • Meursault Tete de Cuvee (October 2007): Early oxidation, spoiled. [John Osburn]
  • Puligny Sous les Puits (Dec. 2009): Premoxed. Still creamy on the palate but badly maderized nose [Joe Floren]

2002

  • Chablis Fourchaume (July 2006): clean, not oxidised [Paul]
  • Chablis Vaillons (Aug 2005): clean, young, no problem [Paul]. Still great in July 2007 [Ken Birman]
  • Chablis Vaillons VV de Minots (7 July 2008): comes across as fully mature, drink up [Keith Akers]
  • Chablis Vaillons VV des Minots (18 Feb. 2010): early oxidation. Drinkable, but nothing compared to last bottle in July 2008. [David McMahon]
  • Chablis Bougros Bouqueyreaud (Nov 2007): seems fully mature, drink this baby up now! [Ken Birman]
  • Corton Charlmagne(Aug 2007): early signs of maderization. Still drinking well but won't last [Ken Birman]
  • Corton Charlemagne (Jan 2012): Color of an 09. No signs of oxidation at all. Delicious. [AT Bridge}
  • Puligny-Montrachet "Sous les Puit" (Oct 2007): Clear signs of maderization. At its peak now -- drink up [Ken Birman]
  • Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (Jun 2008): clean, youthful; unbleached cork; drinking very well [Ben Delancy]
  • Chablis Montee de Tonnerre (May 2009): still very youthful; unbleached cork; very good bottle [Ben Delancy]
  • Hospice de Beaune Meursault 1er Cru "Les Charmes" (June 2008): not oxidized. Drinking well [Garrett DeVries]

2004

  • Chablis La Forest (July 2010): No premox [Michael Malinoski]
  • Chablis La Clos (Feb 2012): No premox, really nice, flinty [Suzane Camhi]

2005

  • Meursault Les Tillets (15 Jun 2011): two bottles, not oxidized [Peter von dem Borne]

2006

  • Meursault Les Tillets (17 Okt 2010): three bottles, not oxidized [Peter von dem Borne]
  • Meursault Les Tillets (7 Feb 2011): one oxidized, one not [Peter von dem Borne]
  • Mâcon-Bussières Vieilles Vignes du Clos (23 Okt 2011): three bottles, not oxidized [Peter von dem Borne]
Corton Charlmagne(Aug 2007
Corton Charlmagne(Aug 2007
Corton Charlmagne(Aug 2007
Corton Charlmagne